Living Norwegianly | Embracing The Magic of Koselig
/Autumn arrived seemingly overnight. The trees suddenly turned yellow and days transitioned from the midnight sun to dark winter nights as quickly as flipping a light switch.
This quick transformation has made me reflect on how we Brits tend to grumble about the weather, prefer to stay inside, and seek refuge in cozy pubs, cafes or shopping malls.
Meanwhile, Norwegians, though they might grumble too, embrace the elements with a different spirit.
In Norway, bad weather is an invitation to venture out and let the wind and rain invigorate you, or to stay in and fully embrace koselig, the art of feeling cozy, comfortable and content.
Koselig is created with flickering candles, blankets wrapped around you, a roaring fire, and a steaming cup of coffee or hot chocolate (maybe even knitting a stylish woolen jumper). The storm outside only makes the warmth inside feel even more magical.
And when you're out in the mountains, battling the elements, it’s koselig that motivates you—the anticipation of that warm, fuzzy feeling when you finally retreat indoors. After braving nature’s wild side, the coziness feels like a well-earned reward.
Woolfie and I recently felt that koselig magic on our 48 hour adventure in Dovre National Park. Famous for the splendid view from Snøhetta and the rare majestic Musk Ox — and it didn’t disappoint, the hike was as rocky as it was rewarding (and it was rocky).
The weather wasn’t on our side when we arrived—visibility was zero, and the wind and rain were relentless. So, I stayed inside for the afternoon, writing the next module for The Wild Collective.
But the next day, we caught a break in the weather and set out early for the summit of Snøhetta. If you’re not a fan of rocks, this hike might not be for you—it’s all rocks, all the way up—but the views at the top make it worth every rocky step!
We decided to hike down and onto to Åmotdalshytta, enjoying a pleasant journey that treated us to all four seasons in just a few hours, and thankfully far fewer rocks than the trek to Snøhetta (my knees were grateful!).
The main cabin of Åmotdalshytta is spacious, with around 30 beds and two dog-friendly sections. As is often the case in these mountain huts, it was filled with friendly, open-hearted people, and engaging conversations were plentiful. The cabin is fully self-serviced, with no host, so everyone cooks for themselves—and the variety of food available is truly impressive!
I found the dog section in the outbuilding cosier than the main cabin, complete with a fire in the room and a sense of privacy — exactly the vibe I was seeking.
Woolfie and I shared the space with two other super girls and another cute dog, playing cards and warming ourselves by the fire. It was pure bliss— a quintessential koselig moment.
After a rejuvenating sleep—there’s nothing quite like cabin sleep—we set off on our journey back the next day in sunshine!
We took the longer, more scenic route back to Snøheim, and it was stunning. We climbed 90% of the ascent very quickly — of course, over more rocks. But once that was behind us, we navigated our way around some beautiful lakes and yes, over more rocks. When we finally made it onto a very well trodden dirt path, we were in heaven! And it got better…
As we crested a small hill, there they were—a rare herd of musk ox, majestic creatures straight out of the Ice Age. They stood calmly, munching on grass, and watching us as we maintained a respectful distance.
Given the gloomy weather and our route through an area we were told they’re never in, I didn’t expect to encounter them, especially not right on the DNT path.
It was impossible to miss them, as if they had been placed there just for us and the few other hikers fortunate enough to witness their regality and magic.
In that moment, I was reminded of one of my more newer powerful beliefs: what is meant for you will never pass you by. It might take a meandering path to reach you, especially if you're sidestepping lessons or avoiding healing, but it will be there, waiting patiently until you're ready to receive it.
Encountering those musk ox felt like a gift from the universe, one of those magical moments you can’t plan, but will never forget.
With luck on our side, we caught the 4pm bus back to the car and managed to drive halfway to Lofoten that evening. For the first time ever, I slept in my car—an exciting experience, though one I might not repeat unless I’m in the back with the seats down!
After a further 12-hour drive and a couple of ferries, we finally arrived in Lofoten, ready to embrace the bad weather and find even more koselig moments as autumn settles in up north.
Here’s to finding magic in every season, no matter what the weather brings!
Snakkes, Adelaide
P.S. Here are some quick tips if you’re visiting Snøheim:
Only accessible by shuttlebus (about 50NOK + dog fee) or foot along a gravel road. 30-minute ride. Park at Hjerkinnhus Mountain lodge (less than 100nok a day) and get the bus in front of the building.
You can camp or stay at the cozy DNT hut, though Woolfie will tell you it’s not quite as cozy for dogs—they aren’t allowed in the main cabin, only in a basic, but pleasant room.
I’m not sure if you can go up and over - there is a path on the map, but I heard it was sketchy and someone else said you needed ropes. We took the paths that went either side of Snøhetta to get to the other cabin, the shorter path is easier.
You don’t need to book Åmotdalshytta - but sign into the guestbook on arrival to secure your bed. Take food you like, I always bring Real Turmat. GF/DF options are available but very limited.
Recommended to book Reinheim, we didn’t stay there as it’s only 1.5 hour walk from Snøheim.
